Building a wall
-Electric saw / Hand saw
-Sandpaper
-Drill / Drill bits
-Screw driver (battery driven is sufficient)
-Screw bits
-Tape-measure
-Pencil
-Hammer
-Pliers
-Wood plane
-'Festo' plunge-cutting saw
-Tacker and compressor
-The frames, to stabilize the wall,
need to be on the outer sides of the ply-wood sheet and one in the middle.
-The vertical frames are put onto a strong horizontal frame.
-The frames are made of two vertical slats and are connected by shorter horizontal ones.

-There should not be more then 50cm between them.

-Here we tacked them, but screwing is also an option.
-Frames are ready, the ply-wood can be placed 18mm of the ground.
-Use pieces of wood as a measure for the lifting of the ply-wood sheets.
-One frame needs to be sitting at the plate seam.
-Use a little piece of wood (same thickness) to keep the right distance.
-To be able to close the sides of the wall afterwards.
-It is useful to sand the corner to make the patching easier after.
-You can now attach the other half of the ply-wood.

One side of the wall is ready!

To cover the 'backside' of the wall, do exactly the same.

If you like to cover the sides of the wall, so the inside is invisible,

!Keep in mind! the extra mm you need on the left and right of the wall, its the thickness of the ply-wood, for example 16mm (see one picture above here)

Now you can prepare the wall to paint it!
Electric saw / Hand saw
To cut the pieces of ply wood, which will be the surface to hang the art on, the electrical saw is sufficient.

-Make sure the cable does not get in the way.
-Always stand steady on both feet.
-Hold the saw with one hand and the other hand secures the wood from moving away.
-To not cut the wood with an angle, make sure the metal part around the blade lays flat on the wood.

!Very important! Never change the blade when the saw is still connected to the wall plug!

Hand saw:
-Never push the saw into the wood, let the saw-teeth do the job.
-Draw a pencil line to follow.
-The forefinger aligns with the saw.
-Watch your thumb on the other hand.
Different grain types/size:
40, 80, 150, 240, 600

Higher the number, finer is the grain.
For wood and sanding off the filling plaster, size 80 then 150 will do.
Lack 240

You can get the sandpaper in different shapes and sizes, for different machines.
-sheet
-belt
-disc
-sponge

For best grip and straight sanding use a sandpaper holder.

Or a piece of wood (hand size) to fold the sanding paper around it.
Sandpaper
Drill / Drill bits
For wood:

-Drill bits for wood have a sharp point for boring holes, as opposed to standard bits that are blunt on the end.
-The drill bit should go in straight, using a steady pressure. If you go in on an angle, you could splinter the wood, and if you drill too fast, the wood can burn.

For steel:

-There are two types of drill bits that you can count on for metalworking projects: titanium and cobalt.
-They are very hard, and corrosion-resistant. They last much longer than regular HSS (high-speed steel) drill bits, and they are good for cutting through any metal, including metal sheeting. They are also highly resistant to heat and are very hard and abrasive.

For stone:

-They have this little hammer-shark-head at the top.
-You want to use a hammer drill to make your holes. Mostly wired drills have this hammer function.

for wood

for metal
for stone
Screw driver
They say girls decide on the color for things they buy?
Maybe...
I can not really recommend a certain drill, but I love Makita!!

But here are some things to keep in mind when buying a 'accu'-drill:
-For what kind of work do you need it?

-If you need it for easy wood work and you need to walk around with it all the time (up a lather or hanging art on wall) a 9.6 volt would do,
its lighter and it won't tire your arms so fast.

-If you need it for a bit more heavy duty (like building walls) you could go for a little heavier one, 13 volt at least.
(still not comparable with a power-tool drill).

-Make sure that drill has a lithium battery, they are more expensive, but do not have a 'memory', they last much longer.

-Look for drills with a short recharge-time, a battery that needs 4 hours to charge is useless.
Screw bits
Wikipedia has a good and detailed page explaining all bit types.

Link here
I mostly use the Pozidriv bits for the wood working.
But here again it depends for what exactly you need the screws. The link makes these differences very clear.
Tape measure
Get a strong one (5meter long).
You don't want it to break easily.

-If you pull it out too far, it might not roll back in.
-Check on the metal end after some time heavy use, it might have bend.
-For extreme accurateness start measuring from the line at 10cm


Pencil
Hammer
Pliers
-Use a pencil, a ball-pen is not a good option.
-A pencil is easy to remove or to paint over it.
-It always works!
-The claw of the hammer is used to remove nails.
-Hold the hammer closer to the end, that gives you more control.
-Hammer out of you wrist.

This pliers here are quite useful, because of the adjusting option. But other pliers will do too.
I would say check on the handles, if they are well done, you need to hold them using a lot of pressure.

Slats:
Use Pinewood (planed), its cheap and easy to drill and screw. The size is measured in 'thumbs'.

Mostly used wood lath sizes
(raw):
18 x 44 mm 1x2 thumb
44 x 69 mm 2x3 thumb
18 x 69 mm 1x3 thumb

Wall surface and pedestals:
Mdf:
It is easy to mold with the filling (the cutting sides are smooth) It is not so expensive as for example multiplex. But it is heavy. For a wall you would use sheets of 10mm, 12mm or 16mm thick.

Chipboard:
It is the cheapest version. But you would need to work more on the smoothing out. Here you use the same thickness as with the Mdf.

Multiplex:
It is the more expensive wood to use, but it is light, strong and easy to work with.

-You know the plate is at a right angle, if both diagonals are the same.

For the pinewood slats:
4x80mm
For the Mdf 16mm:
4x40mm

-After you pre drilled the wood, enlarge the beginning of the hole a bit, to be able to sink the screw head.
-The length of the screw is depending on the thickness of the wood, you don't want the screw to stick out.
Tools you need to build a wooden wall:
Information about wood you could use:
Information about screws you could use:
'Festo' plunge-cutting saw
This saw is for professionals to cut long and straight. They come with a metal rail, for staedyness.


Tacker and compressor
Also for professional use. For people who build a lot, its much faster to tack the woods together then screwing them.
Wood planer
Its easier and faster to adjust the size of the wood in millimeters, then using sandpaper.
Mdf
Multiplex
Chipboard
Step by step how to build a wooden wall:
-Doing that, you will have a 'floating' wall.
-You don't have to and your wall will stand directly on the ground.
Fixing the Wall and Painting it
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